![]() ![]() from a wine bottle top or an aluminium fizzy drink can. The result is very effective and is near impossible to spot on your finished model :) The main advantages are that it’s quick, clean and easy to achieve making it one of my ‘go-to’ techniques when I want to make good quick progress with my project. I like this approach a lot and it usually works very well. ![]() Leave to dry thoroughly overnight and sand and buff to restore the nice flat surface. The filling remedy I use (there are other options as ever) is to mix some cyano glue with some talcum powder (60-40 glue to talc) and use that to fill the defect or affected area (see your SMN TB – Glues and Gluing for how to do this). Filling does take more time to finish than masking that follows below. This approach does work well though on flat, exposed areas. This is my least preferred method, mainly because the ejector pin marks are often in difficult-to-get-at areas and trying to fill and sand (especially) is likely to damage the surrounding detail. The basic choices are to either fill, sand and buff the affected area or find a way to mask the defect so that it won’t show on your completed model. Ok, so you decide you want to get rid of the ejector pin marks and/or sink marks. The final consideration then is when you believe the marks will be visible and you want to do something to eliminate or mask them and that’s what this entry in your SMN Techniques Bank is going to address. Try some careful dry-fitting of the parts if you can to see if the (annoying) marks will be visible and decide after that. The second question to ask is ‘will the defects be seen on the finished model?’ And, if the answer to that is ‘No’, then you might just get away with not doing anything about them at all, saving time and unnecessary effort. Try and cut corners, ignore what’s in front of you and get ready for disappointment! Taking a bit of time to take care of these modelling issues at the time is all part of the preparation process. I just think that preparation is everything – take care of it and you give yourself a fair chance of being pleased with your completed model. The first question to ask yourself is – are you bothered? Maybe not and if so press on, although, as your skills and experience develop you may become frustrated that you didn’t attend to these things at the time as the finished look of your model leaves you disappointed in some way. Sometimes during the ejection moulding process when parts are ejected from the mould you can get imperfections in the plastic parts that you may need to eliminate and improve because if you don’t you can get some unsightly effects that can spoil the eventual look of that part of your finished model. Target modelling project for this demonstration: Airfix 1:48 North American P-51D Mustang ![]() Repairing, reinstating and creating surface detail ![]()
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